Palangkaraya Impressions

The best food in Indonesia on board the Rahai'i Pangun

2011-11-21T03:16:00.000-08:00

Ute Bohnsak, a recent guest on board, who came with a group sponsored by a major German sponsor of WWF-Indonesia, complimented us on our delicious food - a compliment regularly given on our trips...

"... we were all raving about the food on board your boat. It beat anything we had on the trip hands down, including the four-star hotel. Coffee and cake afterwards was a very nice touch too. You know how to keep customers happy :)

In particular, the chicken & potato dish with ginger was a favourite. Does that dish have a name I could google? Would love to re-create it ...

Wishing you continued success with your Eco wisata business."

Here are some photos of the food - and take note that a Jungle River Cruise Recipe Book will be available in the New Year. We are happy to take orders at any time.

By the way, the chicken and ginger dish is Tom Kha Kay if you want to Google it!

Sabangau National Park and local communities on the Katingan River

2011-11-05T02:59:00.000-07:00

The Sabangau National Park is 600,000 hectares of tropical peat-swamp forest in southern Central Kalimantan, rich in biodiversity and especially noted for supporting the largest world population of the endangered orangutan.  

WWF-Indonesia  works closely among the local community within and bordering the Sebangau ecosystem to promote sustainable, responsible and innovative livelihoods. Their community based eco tourism initiative, focused in the villages of Baun Bango, Jahanjang and Karuing on the Katingan River, is a mechanism for supplementary and sustainable income generation linked to protection of this area of high conservation importance and as a major global store of carbon.

KTD  is now offering tours into this remarkable Park, working closely with  these local communities to give visitors an authentic eco tour. Contact  us for a full program and enjoy the tour in photos above.

Evening light on the rivers and lakes of Central Kalimantan

2011-11-05T02:46:00.000-07:00

The extraordinary rich evening light offers a feast of vistas for passengers on board Jungle River Cruises and for photographers looking for the dramatic effects of light and skies on the blackwater and forests.

Adopt a Sea Turtle from a Conservation Program near Pankalan Bun

2011-11-04T20:41:00.000-07:00

The BKSDA or Indonesian Nature Conservancy Agency last year established a sea turtle conservation program at Tanjung Keluang. A slender sandy promontory, stretching between the sheltered bay near Kubu prawning village and the mouth of the Kumai River, it is the beach chosen by sea turtles to lay their eggs from about March through to November. In the past, the eggs were disturbed by uncontrolled local tourism and the usual predators, monitor lizards and rats. Now a dedicated team from BKSDA regularly patrol the beach to keep zircon miners away, and to monitor nests. Many eggs are transferred to controlled hatcheries, safe from predators. Hatchlings are released in the sea before they reach the age of 4 months.

An adoption program there enabled Lorna and Gaye to release one of these feisty little survivors after he was comprehensively measured, weighed, named Rahai'i Pangun and placed on the beach heading inland! He rapidly found his direction and after his first sniff of the sea, intrepidly swam off.

There is no accommodation here, though a toilet and shower block has been constructed, and camping is permitted. A SIMAKSI Permit from BKSDA Office is Pankalan Bun is needed to visit.

KTD offers visits to Tanjung Keluang - ask us at wowborneo.com.

Isen Mulang Festival 2011

2011-05-18T02:44:00.000-07:00

Here is the program for the Festval Budaya - Dayak Cultural Festival in Palangkaraya

Thursday, 19 May 2011

Time : 12.00am

Grand Opening of Isen Mulang Festival, Cultural and Tourism Pageant
Time : 19.00 pm

Competition : Karungut singing & Fireball
Location : Sanaman Mantikei - Stadium

Friday, 20 May 2011
Time : 08.00 am & 14.00

Competitions: Balugu, Habayang, Blowpipe, Canoeing and Weaving
Time : 19.00 pm
Activities : Traditional Dancing and Fireball Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei and Kahayan River

Saturday, 21 May 2011

Time : 08.00 am
Competitions: Cooking, Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang,Mangenta, Traditional Canoe and Besei KambeCompetition
Time : 14.00 pm
Competitions : Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang (Sanaman Mantikei), Traditional Canoe and Besei Kambe Competition (Kahayan River - Under the Kahayan Bridge)
Time : 19.00pm
Competitions : Fireball and Coastal Dance Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Sunday, 22 May 2011

Time : 08.00 am
Competitions : Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang, Besei Kambe, Mangaruhi (Location : Golf Field Km 4),Maneweng-Manetek and Manyila Kayu, also Pakasak Lamang
Time : 18.30 pm
Competitions : Prince and Princess Of Central Kalimantan Competition
Time : 19.00pm
Competition : Fireball
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Monday, 23 May 2011
Time : 08.30 am
Competition : Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan (Interview Session)
Location : Balanga Museum
Time : 14.00 pm
Competition : Decorated Canoe
Location : Under the Kahayan Bridge
Time : 19.00pm
Activities : Entertainment
Location : Bundaran Besar - Big Roundabout

Tuesday, 24 May 2011

Time : 18.30 pm
Competitions : Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan (Grand Final)
Time : 19.00 pm
Closing ceremony of Isen Mulang Festival
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Cookery competitions - decorative vegetable arrangements

New Zealand International School students say its the best camp yet!

2011-01-19T09:08:00.000-08:00

New WOW Borneo Website Launched

2011-01-11T19:57:00.000-08:00

Just launched is our new look website - same address but loads more features - and our wonderful short film is right there on the Home Page for you to savour.

New Year Cruise in Close-up

2011-01-10T10:09:00.000-08:00

In early January, with the river levels unseasonally low, the Rahai'i Pangun headed south to re-visit the village of Tundai, to renew our friendships there. We sat down with one of the older village women as she wove a rush basket. Starting with merely a few stems, she deftly threaded the slippery lengths into a strong base.
We met the village women and discussed their lives in this tiny village, floating on the coal black lake waters.

That night it rained, and we set off up river, with guests boarding at different locations... all the time enjoying local specialties, giant fresh water prawns, crisply fried corn 'percadel' or cakes, jungle ferns, aubergine grilled and served with a piquant chilli and tomato sauce, and great breakfast pancakes.

By the last day, we were beating our way up stream against the swollen Kahayan River to Bukit Rawi and our excursion to the colourful sandungs at Sigi and Tuwong. After another heavy downpour, we returned to the cozy Rahai'i Pangun, with her rain shelters down and candles lit, for an evening of traditional music and wonderful food and company!

Highly Commended Responsible Cruise Operator 2010

2010-11-21T16:47:00.000-08:00

At the World Travel Market in London last week, Rahai'i Pangun Jungle River Cruises was Highly Commended in the Virgin Holidays Best Responsible Cruise Operator category.

To have a look at all the award winners, follow this link http://www.responsibletourismawards.com/pastwinners.htm

Womens Own Adventure journeys into Kalimantan

2010-11-20T19:32:00.000-08:00

Canoeing from the Rahai'i Pangun

An orangutan in the branches on the river bank

Longhouse at Tumbang Malahoi

Meeting villagers & sharing a locally grown, roasted and spiced coffee

Australian travel company Womens Own Adventure have sent their first clients on the Jungle River Cruise and Longhouse trip. Transferring direct from the airport to the Rahai'i Pangun, the two adventurous women made themselves at home in the comfortable cabins for the 5 day journey up the Rungan River. After sighting orangutans, canoeing the lakes and rivers spotting proboscis monkeys, stretching out on the deck sofas, visiting villages and learning the 'welcome dance', Nicki and Kate set off for their 4WD trek, along roads just being built, to the traditional longhouse at Malahoi.

'Hard to beat' was their last appraisal of the trip after their final refreshing night at the Rungan Sari Resort!

Venturing to the Upper Kahayan longhouses

2010-09-21T22:03:00.000-07:00

Lebaran holiday in Indonesia, what perfect time for us working here to escape the tiny city of Palangkaraya and head for the 'real' Borneo jungle and the old Tumbang Korik longhouse.

Distant and isolated as ever, it takes a combination of bumpy car rides, noisy local 'klotok' canoes and sacks full of patience, flat tyres, breakdowns and racing rapids to get there.

Setting off up the Kahayan River from Tumbang Mirih, we turned off on the Hampatung tributary. Stopping en route at a Dayak tiwah ceremony in full swing in a tiny village, we were thrown straight into another world. At Tumbang Korik, we slept in the very longhouse where tribal reps had gathered after walking from all over Borneo to meet 130 years ago to iron out a deal with Dutch missionaries to stop head hunting. We lay on those ancient boards, watching daylight twinkle through the uneven walls, living from dawn to dusk by the river.

Following our parang machete wielding guide, we were swallowed by a tall forest. Stumbling up and down hills, over creeks and marshes, listening to the whir of the great black burung endang or hornbill overhead and the shrill calls of smaller birds, we passed through in the half light.

Our last day was a long klotok ride to another longhouse over on the Kahayan River, a re-construction of the original place of the signing ceremony at Tumbang Anoi - it was considered too dangerous to bring the Dutch visitors up our rock strewn river which was named after the many wrecks littering its course. We still saw lots!

And the finale, we rode the Kahayan River through the narrow gorge near the Dayak holy rock of Batu Suli . Feeling alive but badly sun burnt, we climbed up the steps to our losmen in Tewah. No comparison with the longhouse!

An iconic Indonesian experience

2010-08-26T20:41:00.001-07:00

... writes our recent guest, Benjamin Reader, in his blog 'Travel Adventures in Indonesia'

Palangkaraya, the capital city of Central Kalimantan province, is where Gaye Thavisin and Lorna Dowson-Collins have located Kalimantan Tour Destinations, a travel agency that is pioneering ecotourism in a part of Indonesia where the potential is high yet to date little has been achieved.

The city is situated two thirds of the way up Central Kalimantan's largest river, the Sungai Kahayan, which has its genesis up near the border of West Kalimantan in the Northern Mountains and winds its way 600 kilometers south emptying into the Java Sea near to the border with East Kalimantan and Banjarmasin.

The presence of one of Kalimantan's mighty rivers and its proximity to some of the last remaining pristine Borneo lowland rainforests and their orangutan and other exotic flora and fauna made Palangkaraya the perfect location for Kalimantan Tour Destinations to launch their keynote ecotourism experience, Jungle River Cruises aboard the Rahai'i Pangun.

Jungle River Cruises provides travelers to Central Kalimantan with minimal impact viewing of its rainforest, wildlife and riverside Dayak villages from the vantage point of a traditional river mode of transportation. It also benefits local communities by generating alternative livelihoods and teaching new skills that contribute to the development of a sustainable local eco-tourism economy. From my perspective, it is also an easily accessible and effective weekend wind-down from the stresses and strains of living in fast paced Asian metropolises such as Jakarta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.

The Rahai'i Pangun is a traditional river freighter converted by Kalimantan Tour Destinations into a comfortable river cruiser, perfectly designed for viewing the impenetrable walls of jungle passing by on either side, whilst protecting its passengers from the fearsome stinging hot Borneo sun and lashing rainstorms often hitting the river hard at dusk.

The deck is covered by a protective canvas that unobtrusively allows three hundred and sixty degree views yet can be extended further when the rains hit to keep you dry. It also has very comfortable rattan furniture covered in soft cushions perfect for snoozing away the cruising hours, exactly what I was escaping Jakarta to do.

A highlight of a Rahai'i Pangun river cruise is the delectable local cuisines, my favorite being the giant freshwater prawns farmed down the river close to the sea, and the river fish cooked in a variety of forms. Local coffee is on call but if your pleasure is downing a cold beer while soaking up the atmosphere as time slowly passes you by then it's bring your own and the crew will keep it ice cold. Sleeping two, cabins are comfortable. Screens over the windows keep mozzies at bay, important as malaria is present. You have to be careful to shut the windows before the inevitable afternoon storm hits as soggy mattresses tend to detract from the deep sleep you'd expect when surrounded by jungle serenity.

Just north of Palangkaraya the smaller black water Sungai Rungan joins the brown water Kahayan. Interesting features of the Rungan are the plentiful lakes and islands, and the flooded forests. Natural obstacles and the flatness of the land cause the rivers of Central Kalimantan to follow a course that weaves back and forth like a wriggling earthworm. Over time the river tends to revert to the shortest route leaving loops of water cut off from its main flow and creating what are known as oxbow lakes or leaving islands around which it continues to flow.

The Nyaru Menteng Orangutan Rehabilitation Project uses these river islands as halfway houses for over 600 orphaned orangutans. The orphans are first taught skills they need to survive in the wild and then placed on these islands where they can be observed. Passengers can view them as they congregate on wooden platforms near to where the Rahai'i Pangun anchors for a night. We also saw hornbills flying slowly in the jungle foliage, eagles and kingfisher. Proboscis monkeys and the common macaque also made appearances. We didn't see any gibbons although their throaty call could be heard at dusk and we passed a gibbon sanctuary where access is strictly limited due to gibbon susceptibility to disease.

Getting to Palangkaraya to join the Rahai'i Pangun for a cruise isn't hard. Garuda and Lion Air have daily flights out of Jakarta. The Garuda flight took an hour and a half and cost Rp 1.3 million return. A more adventurous and time-consuming route is to come overland from Banjarmasin or even to come up the Kahayan River on a boat. However one gets there, a river cruise with Kalimantan River Cruises is worth doing and rates as one of those iconic Indonesian experiences.

Rahai'i Pangun Newsletter No. 2

2010-08-18T14:37:00.000-07:00

First guests from Tischler Reisen

2010-08-08T19:28:00.000-07:00

Large European travel company Tischler Reisen have included the Rahai'i Pangun Jungle River Cruises in their current catalogue. This week we had their first guests.

Over 3 relaxing days of calm weather, the Rahai'i Pangun journeyed up the Rungan River seeing orangutans peacefully on river islands, taking canoes for exhilarating excursions into the shimmering flooded lakes, visited the BOS Foundation's Education Centre to see orangutan rehabilitation programs, stood at the site of the holy Batu Banama rock to see spirit houses and cruised to a tiny village to see traditionally made kecapi or stringed music instruments and watch as the finishing touches were put on a hand built canoe.

Our guests set off this morning for the next leg of their Indonesian adventure, to Bali and Komodo.

George Soros on the Rahai'i Pangun

2010-08-02T23:47:00.000-07:00

George Soros & party aboard the Rahai'i Pangun, moored in Tundai Village

Here's the official Antara Indonesian News Agency report on George Soros' visit to Central Kalimantan. The Rahai'i Pangun was used by the party to overnight on the Kahayan River during the group's excursion to the down river village of Tundai.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Soros visits Kalimantan forest

Antara News, Sunday, July 25, 2010 02:37 WIB

Palangkaraya, Central Kalimantan (ANTARA News) - Noted US fund manager George Soros conducted a natural tourism visit to a number of tropical forest locations in Central Kalimantan.

Soros was welcomed by Central Kalimantan Governor Agustin Teras Narang at Cilik Riwut airport on Saturday noon.

"I am visiting Central Kalimantan to observe its forests and peat land in my capacity as a United Nations envoy for the environment," Soros said.

He said that he would obtain a lot of information directly in the fields. Not only that, Soros said he would also get information directly from the locals staying in the forest surrounding.

"During my tropical forest trip I will get information directly from the field. I myself is a United Nations envoy for the environment and was assigned by the UN secretary general," Soros said.

In the meantime Central Kalimantan governor Agustin Teras Narang said Soros was interested in the local government`s policy, particularly on forest and peat land.

"Soros admitted that the Central Kalimantan government pay attention to the sustainability of forest and peat land," the governer said.

from http://cempaka-nature.blogspot.com/2010/07/soros-visits-kalimantan-forest.html

Turn off the river to Tundai

2010-06-28T16:22:00.001-07:00

As if floating on the glistening black ox bow lake waters stained by the forest litter as they surge and overwhelm the landscape, the tiny Tundai community sits isolated from dry land in a world of its own. Making its living from the bounty of the Kahayan River and the myriad of ox bow lakes and canals created by the meandering main course, the community spends the high water season preparing innovative fish traps. Intimately knowing the habits of the fish species in the area gives rise to the unique hand crafted bamboo cages and gates which are immersed in the ink black waters.

Making its living entirely from the river in the past, this village worries about the long term future of fishing in a province where the rivers are muddied by rapid development and a gold rush. To broaden its income, villagers have opened their cottage doors to visitors, and are inviting you to share this unique riverine lifestyle for a few days. Share their homes, experience their livelihoods and enjoy their community life.

As a special bonus, during the high water season, accompany villagers by canoe into their protected community forest to spot some of the unique flora and fauna of magical Kalimantan, including the iconic orangutan. This is an unforgettable and responsible way to see one of the world's unique animals in its native habitat.

New Zealand International School visits Palangkaraya

2010-06-14T22:36:00.000-07:00

School trips made easy and adventurous are now possible in Central Kalimantan.

The New Zealand International School Group thrived on 4 days of trips and activities, including boat cruises, meeting villagers and learning about traditional livelihoods, climbing atop Tangkiling Hill, exploring lakes by canoe, visiting the BOS Orangutan Education Centre and visiting Dayak historic sites.

Staying in simple Eco Village rooms, the group left regaled by the traditional local food and memories of a varied and unusual program.

Borneo Reborn, says Simon Pitchforth

2010-06-04T00:20:00.000-07:00

In this month's issue of Jakarta Java Kini, Simon Pitchforth waxes lyrical about his Central Kalimantan escape a'board the Rahai'i Pangun :

Indonesia contains a great many areas of natural rainforest within its borders, however the famous island of Borneo remains perhaps the most iconic and evocative of these. Despite the environmental pressures on the region, Borneo (the Indonesian half of the island is known as Kalimantan, which translates as ‘River of Diamonds’) still offers tourists one of the world’s largest natural wildernesses.

Jakarta Java Kini headed to the Central Kalimantan city of Palangkaraya recently in order to further explore the island’s heart of darkness, to have its environmental consciousness raised and, above all, to enjoy a extraordinary three day boat tour through the steaming jungles of this remarkable region.

Palangkaraya and its beautiful surrounding rainforests are relatively quiet places next to the hectic hurly-burly of Java. The city itself has a mere 250,000 residents whilst the huge sprawling expanses of Kalimantan as a whole contain a mere 2 million people, compared with Java’s 120 million. The majority of the population are Dayak, the original indigenous tribes people of Borneo.
The city of Palangkaraya itself is a pleasant place and many of its residents still practice the indigenous Dayak animist religion of Kaharingan, which is related to Hinduism. Increasingly however, the population is turning to either Christianity or Islam. Palangkaraya still sports many Sandungs though, traditional Kaharingan shrines to the dead that most closely resemble Native American totem poles. Elaborate purification ceremonies are held to honour the Dayak dead and these involve the ritual exhumation and cleaning of the bones some time after the initial burial of the deceased.

Palangkaraya is also a city steeped in more recent history, as well as ancient tribalism. Sukarno, the republic’s first president, was a big fan of the city and even considered making it the Indonesian capital. Indeed, pay a visit here and you will be confronted with wide, impressive boulevards that are at odds the town’s modest population and which were built by the Russians when Mr. Sukarno was flirting with the red menace. Indonesia’s first president also had a fancy woman shacked up in town and her house is an infamous tourist spot. Sukarno’s successor, Suharto, came up with the idea of making Indonesia self-sufficient in rice and his mega-rice project drained the peat swamps in the huge rainforests around the town. Alas the rice failed to grow due to the acidic, peat soil and Indonesia has now become the world’s third largest emitter of greenhouse gases as the now dry peat dumps its carbon into the atmosphere.The problems of illegal logging, slash and burn agriculture, forest fires, illegal gold mining, palm oil plantations and endangered species currently face the delicate eco-systems here, however the area remains one of outstanding beauty.

Into the Heart of Darkness...

One tour company is now attempting to raise environmental consciousness whilst offering a terrific holiday to boot. Lorna Dowson-Collins and Gaye Thavisin, in a bid to open up Kalimantan to ecotourism revenue whilst raising awareness of the area’s problems, set up Kalimantan Tour Destinations a few years back. This pair of adventure lovers have truly revolutionised tourism in the area and have successfully navigated the often tortuous waters of Indonesian bureaucracy to come up with something truly special. Having sunk a lot of their own money into the venture, this intrepid pair’s project literally took float in the form of The Rahai’i Pangun, a magnificent converted river barge that they offer once-in-a-lifetime luxury tours into the jungles on.

The boat can house up to ten paying holidaymakers in comfort and is a truly magnificent vessel on which to head down the region’s huge rivers into the upper reaches of Central Kalimantan. The staff is attentive and treats the guests to some truly tantilising local food, including enormous prawns and super fresh local fish. The cabins are modern and all feature bathrooms, fans and comfortable beds. You’ll be spending most of your time up on the spacious deck though, sprawling on the comfortable sofas, enjoying the 360 degree, panoramic jungle sweep and taking simply gigabytes of photos.

Tours run from two days up to a week in duration and offer the chance to see a beautiful natural wilderness, as well as many wild orangutans which can be observed and photographed frolicking and feeding on the river banks. Jakarta Java Kini had a marvellous time on its three-day cruise as the Rahai’i Pangun gently pottered up the river from Palangkaraya.

The rivers are between 50 and 100 metres wide in nearly all places and are flanked by a dense green carpet of swampy rainforest on either side. These forests are absolutely teeming with life, although there’s not much of the human kind. As well as orangutans, proboscis monkeys, hornbills and many other species can be spotted. As dusk draws in, the combined sounds of nature emanating from the verdant vistas that flank the boat offer true transcendence from the day-to-day grind. There is also the opportunity to head up some of the rainforests smaller channels in a tiny fishing boat on an exciting hour long diversion from the main cruise.

Lorna and Gaye are driven by a vision to protect the area’s fantastic jungles and to create new sources of income for the local rainforest dwelling communities. Poverty is a large threat to biodiversity and so hopefully, by introducing ecotourism to the region, new sources of income can be generated for the Dayaks and some of the chainsaws will fall silent. The tour has already attracted a whole host of admirers and representatives from the United Nations as well as Australian and European parliamentary delegations and even the Prince of Denmark have all had their eyes opened by this truly special journey.

Jakarta Java Kini can’t boast the highfalutin pedigree of these VIPs, however we hope that this article may sway you towards supporting this fantastic adventure and, let us not forget, enjoying one of the most memorable holidays that you’ll ever have. Indeed, as you gently glide along the crystal clear, ultra-calm mirror surfaces of the jungle rivers and humanity recedes behind you, it’s hard to recall that you ever had a care in the world. On our final night, an amazing electric storm illuminated the skies around us for hours whilst the sound of a million species blanketed us like a soothing echo of humanity’s pre-urban past. Why not take a jungle river cruise yourself and dine on some of the biggest river prawns you’ve ever seen in your life whilst you watch orangutans at the riverside chomping down bananas? It’ll be one lunch date you won’t forget in a hurry!

New flights mean daily access to Jungle River Cruises from Singapore

2010-05-29T18:56:00.000-07:00

Palangkaraya is much more accessible after Lion Air introduced its new evening flights. The same airline departs Palangkaraya early morning to improve access to international flights, or for you to make an early return to work in Jakarta!

In addition to its morning flight from Jakarta, Garuda Indonesia will be offering an afternoon service from June.

We list current flight information in the right hand column of this blog. However, please check the timetables directly from the airlines' websites or your travel agent as departure times can vary.

PRESS RELEASE

NEW FLIGHTS TO TAKE YOU DIRECT TO THE HEART OF BORNEO

Palangkaraya 25 May 2010 -

Indonesia’s Borneo, known as Kalimantan – is now easier than ever with Lion Air’s new flights.

Weekends from Singapore are now possible and what better way to escape the Metropolis than to head for the primal experience that only this part of Borneo can offer.

Kalimantan Tour Destinations introduce their unique Rahai'i Pangun Jungle River Cruise in Central Kalimantan, a pioneering eco cruise in the heart of raw Borneo where rivers remain the highways.

The Rahai’i Pangun offers guests a comfortable and safe journey, which engages with villagers en route and supports local communities develop alternative livelihoods. Passing by emerald green river islands now home to rehabilitated orangutans made famous by Animal Planet’s Orangutan Island.

Imagine sitting on a comfortable chair, eating a delicious meal, and watching orangutans peacefully in their natural environment. Knowing that by being here you are supporting the growth of eco tourism that will impact on the conservation of this rare animals' habitat.

Operating now for 2 years and already doubling our occupancy, our cruise has recently hosted amongst other well known dignitaries, Henrik, HRH Prince Consort of Denmark, and Harry Jenkins. Speaker of the House of Representatives in the Australian Parliament.

We differentiate ourselves from the already well known Tanjung Puting National Park, by being able to offer comfort and a well rounded cultural as well as nature experience.

Adding on to our boat cruises; we have a range of Longhouse Tours and other jungle adventures, including speedboat safaris and simple village Homestays. We are able to tailor design tours for guests who want an individual service focused upon particular interests.

# # #

To find out more - a short film of our cruise can be seen on www.youtube.com/thevaughnbrothers (see Rahai'i Pangun) or contact us Kalimantan Tour Destinations. Jalan RTA Milono, KM 1,5, Kevin Maulana - 2nd Floor, Palangkaraya, Central Kalimantan, Indonesia. (Website) www.wowborneo.com. (Email) kalimantantours@gmail.com. (Office phone) +62 536 3222099.(Office mobile) +62 811 520648

Isen Mulang Festival 2010 bursts onto the stage 20-25 May!

2010-05-17T03:48:00.000-07:00

Have a browse through this brimming schedule of unusual, not to say extraordinary, events over a jam packed 5 days.

If its not the uproarious night-time fireball or the intense and haunting karungut singing, the speed and accuracy of the blowpipe darts or the sheer brute strength and idiosyncrasy of the besei kambe, the canoe paddling in opposite directions! - there is something for everyone.

Admire the unique presentation of Dayak cuisine or choose your favourite Prince or Princess. Or check out the fabulous dances ... the list goes on, and the fascination remains.

Write to us for help in making the most of this Palangkaraya Festival at kalimantantours@gmail.com

Here is the schedule of events :

Wed, 19 May 2010

Time : 08.00 am
Activities : Registration of competitors
Time : 17.00 pm
Competition events scheduled : Traditional Canoeing, Besei Kambe (canoe paddling), Large Decorated Canoes, Maneweng, Manetek (wood chopping) and Manyila Kayu (chopping fire wood), Blowpipe, Balugu (coconut bowls), Mangaruhi (catching fish from pond), Sepak Sawut (Fire Football), Habayang (traditional game), Karungut (traditional Dayak solo monotonal singing), Dancing, Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan, Exhibition, Pakasak Lamang (cooking sticky rice using bamboo), Rattan weaving, Cultural pageant and traditional foods
Location : Longhouse Mandala Wisata

Thurs, 20 May 2010
Time : 14.00 pm
Grand Opening of Isen Mulang Festival, Cultural and Tourism Pageant
Time : 19.00 pm
Competition : Karungut singing
Location : Sanaman Mantikei - Stadium

Fri, 21 May 2010
Time : 08.00 am
Competitions: Balugu, Habayang, Blowpipe, Canoeing and Weaving
Time : 19.00 pm
Activities : Traditional Dancing and Fireball Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei and Kahayan River

Sat, 22 May 2010
Time : 08.00 am
Competitions: Cooking, Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang, Mangenta, Traditional Canoe and Besei Kambe Competition
Time : 14.00 pm
Competitions : Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang (Sanaman Mantikei), Traditional Canoe and Besei Kambe Competition (Kahayan River - Under the Kahayan Bridge)
Time : 19.00pm
Competitions : Fireball and Coastal Dance Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Sunday, 23 May 2010
Time : 08.00 am
Competitions : Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang, Besei Kambe, Mangaruhi (Location : Golf Field Km 4), Maneweng-Manetek and Manyila Kayu, also Pakasak Lamang
Time : 18.30 pm
Competitions : Prince and Princess Of Central Kalimantan Competition
Time : 19.00pm
Competition : Fireball
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Monday, 24 May 2010
Time : 08.30 am
Competition : Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan (Interview Session)
Location : Balanga Museum
Time : 14.00 pm
Competition : Decorated Canoe
Location : Under the Kahayan Bridge
Time : 19.00pm
Activities : Entertainment
Location : Bundaran Besar - Big Roundabout

Tuesday, 25 May 2010
Time : 18.30 pm
Competitions : Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan (Grand Final)
Time : 19.00 pm
Closing ceremony of Isen Mulang Festival
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Simon Pitchforth's pronouncements on the cruise

2010-05-09T22:45:00.000-07:00

Simon, a popular Jakarta journalist and bloggist, took a few days break from his hectic life in Jakarta, to relax and unwind on the decks of the Rahai'i Pangun.
Here is his quirky and amusing 'Metro Madness' column from the 'Life & Times' section of last weekend's issue of the Jakarta Globe newspaper.
A 3 page feature article will appear in the next issue of Jakarta Java Kini, a full colour glossy magazine read by many expats living in Jakarta.

Kalimantan canoes

2010-04-17T02:12:00.000-07:00

Rivers are highways in Kalimantan, and to negotiate them, there are different canoes.

Jukungs are tiny dug out canoes that are used normally by one person. Low in the water, it takes both confidence and a sure sense of balance to ride over the wakes of larger passing canoes. Often used by women to check their fishing lines or nets, the jukungs are paddled. The trick is in the expert turning of the wrists. Paddles, though simply made from a plank, can expertly maneuver the small, heavy craft.

Alkons are larger dug out canoes, powered by 2-stroke engines, and have many uses for people living on the river banks. Used for transport, fishing and just getting about, kids from a very early age are adept at using and operating engines, and will obligingly help stranded guests.

Klotoks are the largest canoe. The keel is fashioned from one tree, felled, carved and burnished. Later planks are added along the length. Engines used are often car engines, without the mufflers, moving fast along the rivers. These are formidable canoes, that can carry a dozen passengers and travel long distances.

On our last trip we used alkons in the mirror perfect waters of the lakes.

Sigi 'sandungs'

2010-03-27T02:41:00.000-07:00

Brilliantly coloured and ornate traditional sandungs are still being erected in the tiny village of Sigi. Once the home of Temanggungs or local princes, Sigi has recently relocated from its original site on the banks of the Kahayan river, to be near the new road heading north from Palangkaraya to Kuala Kurun and beyond.

Carved by the artist from Tumbang Manggu, these sandungs show a visual vibrancy and raw energy in the subjects and in the depiction of the vivid spirit life so indicative of Dayak traditions in Central Kalimantan.

Banjarmasin - river explorations

2010-03-08T19:48:00.000-08:00

Banjarmasin and Banjar Baru, side by side, are centres for the Province of South Kalimantan. Named the Venice of Kalimantan, Banjarmasin is built over the 2 deltas of the Barito and Matapura Rivers. A network of more than 60 canals criss cross the city, and are highways for river traffic and also give the venue for small farmers to sell their produce.

The floating market on the Barito in the early morning jostles with women dressed in their colourful sarongs and headscarves, carrying loads of garden produce, rattan baskets and sweet hot cake making. As the swft river pushes us all down river, intense bargaining is carried on among the gossiping, bartering and paddling.

Kalimantan means 'river of diamonds', and gems which are washed from the mountainous hinterland and lodged under the wide delta plains are mined at Matapura, a short distance from Banjarmasin.

Travelling further into the hinterland, a little known and vast marshy area is home to buffalo herders who keep their animals in stalls above the wet seasaon marshes. Daily, the buffaloes swim off to graze among the maze of canals. At dusk, the herder calmly poles through the area, calling his animals home.

This is another world from the bustling river market, irridescent and timeless.

HRH Prince Henrik of Denmark relaxes on the Rahai'i Pangun

2010-03-08T02:34:00.000-08:00

His Royal Highness Prince Henrik, Prince Consort of Denmark, joined us on the Rahai'i Pangun for a morning cruise from Tangkiling to see orangutans on the river island, Pulau Kaja, and to continue further up stream to visit the village of Kanarakan.

The first orangutan release island on the Rungan River established by the Borneo Orangutan Foundation (BOS), Pulau Kaja is temporary home now to about 50 young, rehabilitated orangutans. Carefully watched over and fed daily by the BOS foundation, headed in Central Kalimantan by Dane Lone Droscher-Nielsen, these orangutans are sighted in the lush vegetation of the island. Lone gave His Royal Highness and an accompanying party of project donors from Denmark, detailed information about the rehabilitation program on the island.

Continuing on up river to Kanarakan, HRH Prince Henrik and the party were given a warm welcome in the village by a troup of traditional musicians and a 'karangut' singer, as children of the school danced. Warmly welcomed, the party took a short walk into the village to see more displays and exhibitions. Friendships made and the fun of the farewell 'manasay' dance are seen clearly in the photo records!

February cruising

2010-03-08T00:59:00.000-08:00

Heavy rains clear the air and sunshine sparkles on the water as the Rahai'i Pangun cuts a path through the perfect reflections.
Guests soak up the views and the sunshine as the boat slowly moves on down river.
Passing orangutan islands. as the sun fades on a perfect day.

Rainy season cruise

2010-02-02T21:59:00.000-08:00

The generous January rains have filled the rivers in swirling, eddying currents, over-running banks and rushing into the quiet lakes. Leaves on the forest clad river banks sparkle in the sun which soon follows the sharp down pours. Its spring here and the trees are a-flower. Horn bill fledglings are heard calling in the trees and proboscis monkeys appear in large troups rummaging in the trees for fruit. An unlucky one, surprised by the Rahai'i Pangun, missed his footing and plunged in the water.

Our guest, at the end of her cruise, chose an unusual method of transport home!

A film of the Rahai'i Pangun Cruise!

2010-01-27T00:06:00.001-08:00

Have a look at this link http://www.youtube.com/thevaughnbrothers
for a taste of this adventure cruise in real Borneo capturing the mood of these eternal rivers and jungles.

Here is photographer Bjorn Vaughn in a canoe filming guests joining the Rahai'i Pangun's off boat canoe trip through flooded lakes of Danau Dapur. Filming amid the remarkable reflections in these coal black waters is a picture in itself!

Bjorn and his brother, Director Pierce Vaughn, have created a film redolent of the jungle lined river, the bright splashes of colour in the cultural performance and the sense of under stated luxury on board.

Happy New Year from Rahai'i Pangun Jungle River Cruises

2009-12-29T04:35:00.000-08:00

Exotic Serenity

2009-12-29T04:15:00.000-08:00

Evenings are the perfect time for filming along the river and in the maze of narrow canals and ox bow lakes created by the ever meandering river changing its course.

Fed by the monsoon rains, the waters in the lakes are pure black, leached through the fallen leaves of the swamp forests and the ancient peat of the Central Kalimantan lowlands. The black water creates the perfect glassy surface for reflections at once breath-taking and mysterious. Sometimes, looking at the reflections side on, great forest spirits appear to live in the dense foliage. Deer are native to the forests of Borneo, and in the trompe d'oeil here, appears to be decked with antlers.

Indonesian Governors' wives enjoy cruise

2009-12-07T19:19:00.000-08:00

A sparkling December day welcomed a group of Indonesian Governors' wives to Tangkiling for a cruise aboard the Rahai'i Pangun on the Rungan River.

The wife of Kalteng Governor, Bpk Teras Narang, with Ibu Fauzi, wife of the Jakarta Governor, led the party onto the boat for their short cruise around Pulau Kaja, a river island used by the Borneo Orangutan Survival (BOS) Foundation for the pre-release of orangutans in the later stages of rehabilitation. Accompanied by Aldrianto of the BOS Foundation, the women were delighted to see a group of mothers and babies at one of the feeding stations on the island.

While cruising, the guests enjoyed a feast of local delicacies, including marinated giant river prawns, lemon grass sambal, local grilled river fish, steamed river fish in coconut and turmeric, and the jungle fern, kolokai, cooked with mushrooms.

Metro TV shoots on board the Rahai'i Pangun

2009-11-22T23:11:00.000-08:00

Mid November saw the arrival of Metro TV anchor woman, Virgie Baker, to film a segment for her very popular weekly travelogue, Virgie's Travel Guide.

After reporting and reading the news on this major Indonesian network, Virgie is now working with independent Director-Producer Deyna Haryanto of Jiwa Creation, to produce an energetic look at the variety of tourist destinations right across the Indonesian archipelago.

Just finished filming in Nias and Bali, the team arrived fresh in Palangkaraya to explore the treasures of the Museum and later to stay overnight in a jungle cabin at the Eco Village. The next 2 days were spent on the boat, cruising the placid waters of the Rungan River, passing orangutan islands and enjoying the great food.

Finishing their trip at Bukit Rawi on the rain swollen Kahayan River, the team were treated to a spectacular dance display on the wooden jetty. To the flickering lights of the bamboo flares and the company of many residents of this small riverside kampung, the team had a colourful farewell.

If you are in Indonesia, look out for Virgie's Kalimantan segment on Saturday morning at 9 am on Metro TV on 28 November and 5 December.

Tundai home stay experience

2009-09-10T23:59:00.000-07:00

TUNDAI HOME STAY

3 days 2 nights

Live with a family in a traditional isolated fishing village

Only accessible by boat, Tundai is about 2 hours south of Palangkaraya by klotok or traditional canoe and covers an area of 4,250 hectares. The stilt village is built on swampy land, which is inundated by black water in the rain season, when you walk on board walks and bridges. No roads access this village, and power is from solar cells.

This quiet and beautiful place opens its door to visitors for short stays. You will be hosted by the home owners, who will bring you to and from the village by canoe from the nearest port (Bukit Pinang), give you simple sleeping accommodation and all your food (max 2 guests per house).

Your program includes meeting villagers and accompanying them in their daily activities and joining them in games and music. Also, by canoe, you will visit nearby forests for animal spotting, including proboscis monkeys, macques, and birds all year round.

In the wet season only, October-May, it is possible to see wild orangutans on a special canoe trip – this trip is extra cost Rp 150,000, payable directly to your host. You will go one person per canoe only.

Japanese guidebook features Rahai'i Pangun cruises

2009-09-08T11:36:00.001-07:00

Japanese travel writer, Konno Masao, joined us on a cruise earlier this year. His enjoyment of the experience led him to recommend visiting us. The pictures in this page from the Globe Trotter Travel Guidebook (Chikyuu no Arukikata) are all taken from the Rahai'i Pangun experience.

Visiting the Pasar Ramadhan

2009-09-03T20:56:00.000-07:00

The fasting month of Ramadhan is half way through now, and the afternoon and evening market or 'pasar' selling sweet and savoury delicacies to 'buka puasa' or break the fast and to enjoy for supper in the evening is in full swing. We stop by every evening to pick up a different selection, all sold in small amounts.

Mass tiwah in Palangkaraya

2009-09-02T20:22:00.000-07:00

Every year the Government of Central Kalimantan sponsors a huge 'tiwah' ritual for Dayak families who could not otherwise afford to have this ceremony to release their ancestors souls on their journey to the 'Prosperous Village' in the upper world.

The traditional Dayak religion, Hindu Kaharingan, requires that the family of status ancestors perform the tiwah, not only for the ancestors to be released from the state of wandering spirits in this world, but also to being merit and good fortune on the surviving family members.

The burden of costs of this ceremony are huge, and are largely related to the carving of the sapundu or totem pole with the servant to join the ancestor, to the purchase of sacrificial animals, for the ceremonial blood spilling and feeding of the great numbers of invited guests, and most importantly, for the hire of the Kaharingan expert to conduct the ceremony correctly. Great supernatural risk is taken on by engaging in the tiwah and by building the sandung or wooden mausoleum, that the riitual practices must be followed exactly by ritual specialists.

From the disinterring of the bones, their cleaning and perfuming, to the extraordinary gentleness and respect with which the sacrificial animals are prepared, to the raising of the totems, where the beasts are tied, and the final placement of the bones in the mausoleum (which may be distant from the tiwah site and near the ancestors houses), everything is done according to ritual.

The centre piece of the event is the place where massed bamboo poles are decorated with a yellow skirt and festooned with yellow and batik banners. Yellow is the colour which represents the spiritual world, and will attract the good spirits, who gather to prevent disturbances and protect the ceremony. The totem pole with the ugly face painted below is also designed to scare away disruptive spirits.

Independence Day in Tundai village

2009-08-30T20:56:00.000-07:00

17th August Independence Day in Indonesia is always celebrated with great gusto. During our recent cruise, we happened to visit Tundai on Independence Day, and greatly enjoyed the Besei Kambe competition. This event pits 2 teams of 2 paddlers rowing in opposite directions in the same canoe. Causing great hilarity in all the on lookers, the competitors nevertheless put everything into their performance.

The celebrations, the biggest ever in the village, were covered by a reporter from the local Palangkaraya broadsheet, Detak. This is what they said :

On the celebration of Independence Day last week, the tiny village of Tundai held the biggest celebration ever in the village. Many traditional games were competed such as Besei Tali (tug of war), Bese Kambe (canoe paddling), Sepak Sawut (fireball) and art performance on the stage.

This event was not only attracted the local people’s enthusiasm but also foreign tourists.

We interviewed an Italian Tourist, Ms. S who came to visit Kalimantan together with her husband. They are accompanied by Ms. Gaye Thavisin, joint owner of the Rahai’i Pangun (a cruise boat operated by Kalimantan Tour Destinations)

Detak : 'Hallo Ms. S, how long have you been in Palangkaraya?'

Ms S : 'This is my first time coming to Kalimantan and now is our 3rd day. Before we were
Bali and tomorrow we have to go back.'

Detak : 'What do you think about the traditional games competed today?'

Ms S : 'I am very interested! This game (Besei Kambe) is very unique and I have never see
this before anywhere. Besei Kambe shows the strength, spirit of competition and battle.'

Detak : 'Would you like to try the game?'

Ms S : 'No,no, no. For now I will just watch. Maybe next time.'

Detak : 'What do you think about the tourism in Central Kalimantan?'

Ms S : 'This is a lovely place. I like to see the culture. Unfortunately we have to go back
tomorrow. Next time, I would like to comeback and see the culture again and seeing Orangutans in Tanjung Puting as well.'

Detak : 'What do you think about the people?'

Ms S : 'Yes, lovely people! They are very friendly! They have unique culture. Congratulations!'

Home industry rattan weaving

2009-08-28T17:03:00.000-07:00

In the tiny riverside village of Jabiren, older women keep alive the art of rattan weaving. Using the natural motifs of water plants, with curling leaves, and striking geometric designs, coloured with natural dyes, these beautifully woven mats have a long tradition in Central Kalimantan.

Rattan grows prolifically here, and it is said this region produces some of the best rattan in the world. Cleaned and processed manually in simple factories, the rattan canes, sulphur dried to a soft gold colour in lengths of about 6m, are the starting point for these weavers. Using simple tools, the canes are spliced into narrow shreds, some are dyed, and the weaving process starts.

Using a bench seat, or the living room floor, these works of art grow over about a month into the typical large floor mats, so often used here for seating and sometimes sleeping.

The Swiss Church at Mandomai

2009-08-26T22:17:00.000-07:00

Swiss Protestant missionaries built this Church in 1807 with local people, who they had trained as carpenters.

Made in a traditional glass town in Germany, the magnificent stained glass window is one of only 2 in the world. The other one is in Brazil.

The carpentry school, located behind the Church, was established in 1946, when it was clear that the wood working skills of the people were of a very high standard, and could be developed even further by training. Working by traditional methods, this workshop produces high quality cabinets, tables and chairs for the local and export markets.

The Spirit of Borneo - private charter boat

2009-08-26T10:11:00.000-07:00

This boat built in the iconic 'ulin' or ironwood from Central Kalimatan, was constructed last year in the southern Kalimantan port city of Banjarmasin.

Comfortably accommodating 6 guests in 2 cabins and a bunk area below, a sitting/dining area is inside and covered bench seats on the stern. Above on the roof is the breeze deck, where from the shaded canopy you can enjoy the passing parade on the river.

A cook joins voyages and prepares daily fresh, delicious cuisine, served in style.

Buntuoi Longhouse

2009-08-24T21:51:00.000-07:00

The longhouse at the tiny riverside village of Buntuoi, south of Pulang Pisau was built in1870 and is still inhabited by the ancestors of the family who built it.

Perched high on 10 feet tall 'ulin' or ironwood tree trunks, the longhouse is entered up the age old niched pole ladder. First room entered is the guest and entertainment room, where traditional musical instruments are kept - the gongs, bongos and stringed 'kecapis'.

Past the living quarters and store areas are the dining area and finally, at the end of the longhouse, on an outdoor platform, are the kitchen and bathroom. The stove is a simple fire grate, with chopped wood drying overhead.

Out front, the bones of ancestors lie in the 'sandung', accompanied by the spirit boat, the Banama Tingang, which takes the released souls to the Dayak heaven.

The Rahai'i pangun regularly calls at Buntuoi on its dry season route. Guests do a tour of the longhouse and then stroll through this charming village.

New dry season route opens on the Kahayan River

2009-08-23T11:20:00.000-07:00

At the height of the dry season now, the river levels north of Palangkaraya have dropped so low, the Rahai'i Pangun can no longer navigate them.

Travelling south is a fascinating experience on the Kahayan River, which is tidal all the way to Palangkaraya, over 200 klm from the sea as the river winds. Twice daily tides rise and fall among the locally named Jingka 'mangroves', thickly lining the river banks from Tumbang Nusa to the town of Pulang Pisau. Village stilt houses bare their legs and then lose them again as the tides flow swiftly along the deep river waters.

Among the animals coming inland on the tides are fresh water crocodiles, already in numbers in the mangroves at the mouth of the river. Safe among the dense Jingkas, the females are now seeking quiet places to lay their eggs.

Visiting the villages along the route, meeting the people and having an insight into their lives beside this constantly changing river is an experience not easily forgotten.

American guests enjoy the rivers of Kalimantan

2009-06-08T01:14:00.000-07:00

Starting with a circuit of the Isen Mulang Decorated Boat Competitions in a traditional 'klotok' or canoe, the trip continued with an evening cruise up the Rungan River. Mooring overnight in a peaceful location, in the morning we went out exploring the nearby lakes by canoe. Further on up river, past the orangutan release island, we continued to a village, enjoying a peaceful stroll and conversation with local people. Can you pick out the colourful Kingfisher in one of the photos above?

Dutch Reality Show on the Rahai'i Pangun

2009-06-07T23:40:00.000-07:00

Over 3 days, production company Die Beeldbrigade from Amsterdam, were in Palangkaraya to film an episode of their popular TV reality travel show, "Waar is de Mol?" Host Johnny de Mol had invited adventurous TV personality Nicolette Kluijver, as the special guest.

The crew were lucky to be here during Isen Mulang, the local sports and cultural festival, where Johnny and Nicolette are seen enjoying heats of the blowpipe competitions. Forest camping overnight was followed by cruising on the Rahai'i Pangun Jungle Boat. The successful visit also included a warm and spontaneous village ceremony.

Isen Mulang Festival Highlights - Decorated Boat Competions - Lomba Jukung Hias

2009-05-25T23:33:00.000-07:00

We were watching from a small canoe in the midst of these wildly decorated boats as they enthusiastically competed for the honors. Full feathered and tattooed warriors, thumping gongs, and dancers found a place amidst the profusion of banners, of painted motifs and huts, and even a make believe waterfall. These boats, with their hornbill motif, representing the spiritual life, are believed to ferry the souls of the departed ancestors to heaven. Competitors came from regencies in Central Kalimantan.

ISEN MULANG FESTIVAL SCHEDULE 19-24 May 2009

2009-04-27T03:10:00.000-07:00

Date : Monday, May 18 2009
Time : 08.00 am - finished
Activities : Re-applying process of all competitors
Time : 17.00 pm - finished
Activities : Competition of Traditional Canoeing, Besei Kambe, Decorating Canoe, Maneweng, Manetek (wood chopping) and Manyila Kayu (cutting fire woods), Blowpipe, Balugu (coconut bowls), Mangaruhi (catching fishes from pond),Sepak Sawut (Fire Football), Habayang, Karungut (traditional Dayak song), Dancing, Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan, Exhibition, Pakasak Lamang (cooking sticky rice using bamboo), Cultural pageant and cooking traditional foods
Location : Tourism Department

Date : Tuesday, May 19 2009
Time : 14.00 pm - finished
Activities : The Grand Opening of Isen Mulang Festival, Cultural and Tourism Pageant
Time : 19.00 pm- finished
Activities : Karungut and Fireball Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei - Stadium

Date : Wednesday, May 20 2009
Time : 08.00 am - finished
Activities : Balugu, Habayang, Blowpipe, Traditional Canoeing Competition
Time : 19.00 pm - finished
Activities : Traditional Dancing and Fireball Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Date : Thursday, May 21 2009
Time : 08.00 am - finished
Activities : Cooking, Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang, Mangenta, Traditional Canoe and Besei Kambe Competition
Time : 14.00 pm - finished
Activities : Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang (Sanaman Mantikei), Traditional Canoe and Besei Kambe Competition (Kahayan River - Under the Kahayan Bridge)
Time : 19.00pm - finished
Activities : Fireball and Coastal Dance Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Date : Friday, May 22 2009
Time : 08.00 am - finished
Activities : Balugu, Blowpipe, Habayang, Besei Kambe, Mangaruhi (Location : Golf Field Km 4), Maneweng-Manetek and Manyila Kayu, also Pakasak Lamang Competition
Time : 18.30 pm - finished
Activities : Prince and Princess Of Central Kalimantan Competition
Time : 19.00pm - finished
Activities : Fireball Competition
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Date : Saturday, May 23 2009
Time : 08.30 am - finished
Activities : Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan Competition (Interview Session)
Location : Balanga Museum
Time : 14.00 pm - finished
Activities : Decorated Canoe Competition
Location : Under the Kahayan Bridge
Time : 19.00pm - finished
Activities : Entertainment
Location : The Big Roundabout

Date : Sunday, May 24 2009
Time : 18.30 pm- finished
Activities : Prince and Princess of Central Kalimantan Competition (Grand Final)
Time : 19.00 pm- finished
Activities : The closing of Isen Mulang Festival
Location : Sanaman Mantikei

Isen Mulang Festival 19-24 May

2009-03-10T16:51:00.000-07:00

Every year the Dayak Festival of Isen Mulang marks the foundation of the Province of Central Kalimantan. Vibrant with traditional singing, dance, games and sport teams from the many culturally unique districts of the Province, competing to win the annual laurels, Palangkaraya comes alive.

Calm waters and lush jungle

2009-02-27T22:19:00.000-08:00

After heavy rains, the waters of the Kahayan and Rungan Rivers had risen quickly to give our guests the opportunity to glide by canoes in the flooded forests and jungles near the rivers.

Occasional rain speckles the waters and can pound on the boat covers, and freshens the already green landscapes.

Sebangau River and WWF replanting program

2009-02-22T16:20:00.000-08:00

We picked a great day to take a speedboat trip to the WWF-Indonesia's tree planting and forest rehabilitation site on the eastern edge of the Sebangau National Park. Perfect reflections in the river, and a clear day, made this half day spin from Palangkaraya a real treat.

Over the past 7 or so years, WWF-Indonesia have constructed an earth dam, closing a major canal opened previously by loggers. This has allowed the water table to raise, thus permitting the reforestation of dangerously dried out areas at the park boundaries.

A view from lookout tower shows the vast area now being re-forested, and a glimpse of the tall forest perhaps 10kms beyond. The first trees replanted, including resin tress, are now up to 4 meters in height, and up to 100,000 have been planted or are in nurseries waiting to go out!

Indonesian National Daily KOMPAS features cruising on the Rungan River

2009-02-20T20:50:00.001-08:00

KOMPAS, Nusantara, 15 February 2009 - Exploring Kalimantan

Orangutans beside the Rungan River, a memory….

Some orangutans were sitting in the trees beside the Rungan River, their eyes gazing at us curiously. Sitting there on the wooden vessel, we captured the ancient face of Kalimantan ...

The rivers used to be important transportation routes in Kalimantan's past, but now roads are being built and land transport is used. 9 days on the Trans-Kalimantan Road starting from Nunukan in East Kalimantan, and ending in Palangkaraya, we did not meet the great jungle of flora and fauna, the old face of Kalimantan, but saw only oil palm plantations.

When we arrived in Palangkaraya we decided to stop for a while to rest and enjoy the smell of the forest and witness the local people’s activities on the river. With a vessel called the Rahai’i Pangun Jungle River boat, which is 20x6 meter, we cruised on the river to Pulau Kaja where the BOSF release orangutans after the first stage of rehabilitation. They are moved to Pulau Kaja to begin their journey to becoming independent in the wild.

Besides the sight of these orangutans, tourists are treated to river banks covered in the green jungle of Central Kalimantan and to seeing the life of local people. In the Dayak Village named Sei Gohong, for instance, many boats arrive carrying rubber to be delivered to trucks and sold in Banjarmasin. In the Rungan River, water transportation is still used by many people. At sun down, we watched people fishing on the river banks, so we waved to them as a greeting.

KTD tour operator offers a 5 Day 4 Night Jungle River Cruise where the guests relax on the viewing decks, and overnight in comfortable cabins, with bathrooms and toilets. The guests are taken to other Dayak villages upriver to see the culture and the local livelihoods. The Rahai’i Pangun’s guests come from all over the world, from America, Australia, South Africa, England and the Netherlands as well as Indonesia. If the guests want a more adventurous water experience, they can hire canoes for Rp 150.000 to 250.000 for 2 to 4 hours.

The Partnership

Lorna Dowson-Collins and Gaye Thavisin have been operating the cruise on Rungan and Kahayan Rivers for 2 years. They believe that the river as a way of journeying has a spectacular future for eco-tourism where it is hoped to help the local people by giving the profit and to protect the forest and its animals from damage.

This dream of Lorna and Gaye is like an oasis in the environment, where the Indonesian government and the wealthy business men are converting the forest to palm oil trees plantations! Lorna and Gaye have to work hard to make their dreams come true because the rivers in Kalimantan are being degraded as gold mining activities pollute the river water.

Palangkaraya crafts

2009-02-16T23:53:00.000-08:00

Visiting the Museum 'Balanga' and the handicraft market are must do's during your stay in Palangkaraya.
The Museum is a storehouse of fascinating Dayak artifacts, ranging from finely woven antique rotans and cloths, the threatening masks used to frighten away evil spirits, funeral 'totem pole' carvings, giant swords and blow pipes, objects used in birth and wedding ceremonies, and ancient bark garments and gemstone jewellry.
A trip to the handicraft markets is alive with the modern day versions : rattan hats, rainbow selections of gemstones, furled bamboo blinds and the wavy roots of a traditional medicine tree, good for the liver : so bitter that if you put a twig in your palm, you can taste the bitterness on the other side of your hand!

A weekend cruise in January

2009-02-15T23:40:00.001-08:00

Flying in from Jakarta for a weekend away from the big city, our guests enjoying a very relaxing break. From the comfort of the deck they enjoyed seeing orangutans and scenery perfectly reflected in the waters and lakes of the Rungan River.

Enjoying meals and snacks freshly cooked by the on board chef, and served on deck, their days gently unfolded. Interspersed by excursions from the boat to explore the flooded forests and lakes in small canoes, or to see the Dayak spirit houses, they stretched out on the sofas to catch upon reading or conversation.

Australian Parliamentary Delegation gives Rahai'i Pangun Jungle Cruise a glowing recommendation

2009-02-11T03:05:00.001-08:00

Boardwalk faces in Palangkaraya

2009-02-06T00:27:00.000-08:00

Recently a photographer spent an afternoon with a camera in downtown Palangkaraya, capturing an array of faces framed in the head scarf, with the long boardwalks over the flooded river flats stretching behind them. Capturing the colour and vibrancy of the scene, as well as the poignant and direct looks, to produce a series of timeless images.

Rahai'i Pangun reflected

2009-01-21T16:17:00.000-08:00

A traditional rangkan has been cleverly remodelled into a comfortable 5 cabin, 3 bathroom cruise vessel which departs regularly on journeys along the Kahayan and Rungan Rivers in Central Kalimantan.
Named the Rahai'i Pangun, meaning big development in the local Dayak language, she is pioneering eco tourism here.
At 23m in length and 6m across, with 5 cabins below deck, and large viewing decks above, she plies the strong flowing waters at a graceful rate of 8 knots. Passing serenely along the reflected jungle river banks, she makes her way past orangutan release islands and small communities.
Guests relax on sofas as the timeless scenery slips by.
Meals are made freshly on board, and are a fusion of local Dayak, Indonesian and Thai food . The emphasis is on taste, freshness and variety. Its a gourmet experience, according to many of our guests.
Getting here is an easy hop of just over an hour from the international airport in Jakarta and after a short transfer to the boat, you can enjoy the tranquil scenes in this image.
Contact us at kalimantantours@gmail.com or see more on the website at www.wowborneo.com

Passengers from Spain

2009-01-21T01:39:00.000-08:00

Chris, Adriani and Ris joined us on Christmas Day for a 5 day journey along the Rungan and Kahayan Rivers. Keeping active climbing Tangkiling Hill, visiting the sandungs and canoeing in the lakes, the clear blue skies brought some of the guests out to sunbathe.
The rainy season is spectacular on the rivers, and on the canoe trip into the flooded forest, we were caught in a downpour. Hot ginger drinks saved the day!

Jakarta Post's Weekender magazine highlights the Jungle River Eco Cruise

2008-12-10T22:23:00.000-08:00

Australian Parliamentary Delegation visit Kanarakan in November

2008-12-10T14:55:00.000-08:00

During their short and busy schedule of official meetings and visits to conservation and educational projects funded by the Australian Government in Central Kalimantan, the Parliamentary Delegation found time to cruise on the Rahai'i Pangun from Tangkiling to the small village of Kanarakan.

After answering the traditional questions from the village elders to establish the friendly intention of the visitors, Harry Jenkins, as leader of the delegation, was asked to crush an egg and proceed to open a barrier, formed by a fresh cut tree trunk, covered by a batik cloth. Once this was set aside, the party moved to the palm frond gateway, where two pencak silat or shadow boxers faced each other through flimsy ropes. One representing the villagers, and the other the visitors, an energetic and humorous contest took place during which finally, the last barriers were broken, allowing the visitors to stream in.

After the formalities, the traditional monotonal, improvised singing, or karangut, began a music and dance display, which also included enthusiasic invitations for the guests to join.

Later visiting the school, and the village health clinic, the delegation walked through the village to view infrastructure improvements being made by local goverment, including clean water provision to all houses, and small household solar units. Also visited was a family rubber orchard, where latex collection was shown.

A comfortable 2 hour cruise back to Tangkiling on board the Rahai'i Pangun had the final treat of glimpsing the iconic orangutans on Pulau Kaja release island.

The following is a Press Release issued by the Australian Embassy in Jakarta

5 November 2008

AUSTRALIA AND INDONESIA STRENGTHEN PARLIAMENTARY LINKS

Australia’s Ambassador to Indonesia, Mr Bill Farmer, welcomed the visit by an Australian Parliamentary delegation to Indonesia this week as part of regular official exchanges between our two parliaments.

“The visit is part of the deepening interaction between our two democracies,” said Mr Farmer.

“The last Indonesian parliamentary delegation to Australia in August 2007 experienced the lead-up to our national elections later that year. So too this Australian delegation is seeing Indonesian democracy with all its vibrancy and openness leading up to the 2009 elections,” said Mr Farmer.

The delegation, led by the Speaker of the House of Representatives, Harry Jenkins, held a range of meetings in Jakarta including with the Speakers of the People’s Consultative Assembly (MPR), House of Representatives (DPR) and Regional Representatives Council (DPD) and other Indonesian parliamentarians.

The delegation was also received yesterday by the President, HE Dr Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono and, in a separate meeting, by Vice President Jusuf Kalla.

Mr Farmer also said during the visit the parliamentary delegation was seeing first hand the environment and education work Australia and Indonesia are doing together.

“To help protect the environment our two countries have established a Forest Carbon Partnership to reduce emissions from forest degradation.”

“Australia is also building two thousand schools throughout Indonesia to improve education,” Mr Farmer said.

A musical treat

2008-12-09T00:57:00.000-08:00

When several western classically trained musicians visited the village of Gaung Baru, a spontaneous concert and exchange with the traditional Dayak fiddlers happened.

Arriving from the Rahai'i Pangun, having already cruised past orangutan islands and clambered up Mt Tangkiling, we walked through this tiny village, accessible only by river. As we went, our guests attracted a huge turnout of villagers. Bringing out their instruments to accompany the age old welcome dances, the musicians then lent them to be played by the visitors.

Later we were invited to the home of the kecapi or traditional stringed instrument maker. So impressed by how he had searched the jungle for the right tree to create the instrument, our guest decided to buy one.

Later, in a chance meeting during a forest walk, we came across a villager fashioning a canoe from a Meranti tree he had felled the day before. Using only a simple adze, he had hollowed out the trunk in preparation for putting it over flames to strengthen it, and later adding planks to the side.

Japan office of Garuda Indonesia market Rahai'i Pangun eco cruises

2008-12-08T23:51:00.000-08:00

At an eco tourism travel product exhibition in Tokyo this week from 11-13 December, Garuda's Regional Office for Japan, Korea and China will be marketing Rahai'i Pangun cruises.
At the same time, when coming to Palangkaraya, there is an opportunity to visit Garuda's 'One tree and one passenger at a time' reforestation project in the Sebangau National Park. Garuda are working with WWF-Indonesia to realise its promise to plant a tree for every passenger carried.

Hornbill voyage

2008-12-01T15:53:00.000-08:00

With the forest in flower and fruiting, the magnificent hornbill is out and about gliding slowly from tree to tree seeking out its favourite fruit. On our recent voyage from Palangkaraya, glimpsing this great black bird, with the white bar across its tail feathers and heavy, horned bill, caused great excitement.
The female raises her young in a hole of a tree, closing the hole with mud and twigs so that only a tiny space remains for the male to feed her. Giving her and her precious offspring protection from predators, she depends solely on her mate for food.
Visiting villages and gliding through the lakes by canoe, we finished our journey at Bukit Rawi, where the powerful hornbill, the Burung Tinggang, becomes a symbol of the afterlife in the burial rituals, appearing atop tall poles, and waiting to carry the souls on the their onward journeys.

4WD adventure trail into Dayak Kalimantan

2008-12-01T09:03:00.000-08:00

From the first blessing by the Kaharingan elder to the brilliantly coloured carved totem poles at the burial sites and the humor and drama of the 'Potong Pantan' or welcome ceremonials and dances, this 4WD expedition, with 20 cross country bikes and half a dozen vehicles, ventured deep into Dayak country, in the Gunung Mas Regency.
Over 3 days our journey took us from Palangkaraya to Tumbang Malahoi longhouse, then on from there to Tewah to visit the village of Tanjung Ujung for a traditional welcome. Later we boarded a boat for a ride to the turbulent canyon where the revered stone, the Batu Suli, soars overhead.
According to legend, the stone was kicked there from a great distance by an angry spirit, incensed that Satan had returned to Earth and was eating people. However the stone was blocking the river, so the fish appealed to the spirit to put the stone aside. The only way it could be raised was by levering it up with the flimsy ginger-like Suli plant.
Over roads that were mostly hard clay and boggy in the valleys, we encountered a broken bridge, hastily repaired by enthusiastic locals. The heat was intense, but did make the roads easier to pass. After leaving Batu Suli for Kulala Kurun we had a full tropical storm, with lightening flashing through the darkness and the road turning into a slippery soup.
On the final day, we walked by jungle trail to a pristine waterfall, said sometimes to be the haunt of the angels. Though none about that day, we did actually see evidence of sun bears!
The trip organiser, pictured in the jungle orchid garden, plans another trip next year to more distant longhouses.
If you want to join us on that or a similar adventure, look us up at www.wowborneo.com

Longhouse by 4WD adventure

2008-07-29T17:22:00.000-07:00

Go back in time with us to see a traditional Dayak longhouse. Driving the rain muddied roads in comfortable, new 4 WD vehicles, it can take about 6 hours, depending on the weather.

Along the route we stopped at a riverside village where we saw several canoes being built in the traditional way. First, the craftsman finds the right tree and hollows it out, then forms and burnishes the keel, later adding planks to the side. Finally, it is brightly painted.

After our long trip on muddy roads, the longhouse village put on a welcome ceremony, and later sang and danced. Climbing up the notched tree trunk, which serves as the staircase, we found our simple rooms and strung up mosquito nets. The longhouse is made of huge ulin or ironwood posts, and the walls of bark. Power is limited to a few hours at night.

While our cook prepared supper, we enjoyed animated conversations with the local people, keen to get to know more about their guests.

Early morning our local guide arranged a trek through a rubber jungle, including wading through peat coloured streams, and watching as the latex oozed out of the bark into bamboo sections.

Exploring the village's outstanding carvings and sandungs, or bone houses, and then visiting the kaharingan, or traditional religion temple, was a unique experience. Invited by locals to attend a ceremony to send some children off to the capital for higher education, we had truly engaged in their lives.

Natural treasures of Borneo from the Rahai'i Pangun

2008-07-16T20:28:00.000-07:00

“This trip exceeded out expectations - wonderful food, great staff. Fantastic boat with a good blend of cultural and natural experience. We appreciate the way you are working with the local communities. This was a great trip to assist with learning the natural history of Kalimantan. The birds were great, especially the hornbills and colourful kingfishers. Seeing the orangutans, proboscis monkeys, and other primates was very special. It is a trip we would love to experience again" Paul, Ohio, USA

“The beauty of the river, the night sky, the morning mist, and quaint little villages, were all very special. Also the caring attitude of the staff helps to make this a special experience. It is important that the beauty and biodiversity of Kalimantan be preserved for future generations. What better way to do this than to introduce people to these world class natural wonders “Cathy, Ohio, USA

A dance welcome

2008-07-14T08:40:00.000-07:00

There are so many different activities to enjoy from the Rahai'i Pangun.
Climb to the top of Bukit Tangkiling for a panorama of the flat lowlands stretching all the way to the horizon in all directions.
Visit the old village of Bukit Rawi and see traditional dancing by enthusiastic children, happy to introduce you to the energetic and dramatic Dayak dance performance. Admire the brightly coloured murals and carvings on the village sandung or bone house.
Relax on deck as evening draws near and the stunning sunsets unfold over the mirror calm river waters. Enjoy freshly prepared local cuisine on deck and admire the brilliant stars before turning into your comfortable cabin.

"Thank you for a fabulous trip! It was the perfect combination of luxury and adventure. I'll be back again" Jo Perrens, Australia

Cultural voyage

2008-06-24T17:37:00.000-07:00

Its in the villages where visitors can really get to know the people, their lives and livelihoods, and their culture.
This is how Mardiah, our American guest, saw it :

“It was so moving to visit the two villages. Kanarakhan and Gaung Baru were memorable in their exchange of culture with us” Mardiah Gleeson

Rungan River maiden voyage

2008-06-22T15:49:00.000-07:00

The Rahai'i Pangun's maiden cruise in February 2008 left Palangkaraya bound upriver for canoeing adventures, to see orangutans and for a relaxing journey along the jungle bound river.
Let the guests tell you about the experience :
"Thank you for a fabulous trip! It was the perfect combination of luxury and adventure. I'll be back again" Jo Perrens
" To all on the Rahai'i Pangun, thank you for introducing me to the wonders of Central Kalimantan over a fantastic few days. Loved the boat, loved the concept, loved the food - and the company was pretty great too! " Robin

Lake Sebangau to Palangkaraya

2008-03-03T00:25:00.000-08:00

Making the journey from the peaceful and protected Lake Sebangau to Palangkaraya, even though by road a rapid car trip of only 15 minutes, was expected to be a 3 or 4 day marathon journey by river.

Initially taking us down the glassy waters of the peat stained Sebangau River past tangling rushes, and tiny fishing settlements, we would have to face the big challenge of taking our remodelled river boat on a short sea journey. Only a few hours, but this is the storm season, and with increasing deforestation, come bigger winds.

After only an hour from our departure point, we were stuck in a huge clump of river weeds, and were pulled free by a passing klotok or long canoe taxi. We were aiming for arriving at the mangrove river mouth before midnight in order to begin our projected 6 hour journey to the Kahayan River mouth at 5 am.

Gliding down the Sebangau in an irridescent atmosphere and chugging through one of the best sunsets ever, it was easy to shelve our worries about the sea trip. When finally we reached the mosquito infested mouth, registering with the coast guards, and waiting nervously until dawn, we bobbed alongside other huge sea craft waiting to see the weather conditions as well.

All seemed well enough, not mirror calm, but slightly choppy, so we took off. Heading straight into the waves, we took a course of least resistence, and distant from the treacherous sandy shores and winds and waves driving into our side. Once in sight of the wide muddy mouth of the Kahayan River, we turned our stern to the winds and hurried ashore.

Our boat boys looked sea sick, but the retired captain, used to much worse on the Java Sea, just kept going on coffee and noodles until we entered the port of Bawan. Reputed as a hive of pirates, all we saw were a bunch of very friendly and surprised kids, a riverside stonemason with a display of tombs, and many tall concrete buildings with tiny swallow holes (their custom built nesting sites by enterprising villagers).

The final days on the broad muddy Kahayan were marked by rain and more rain. But it stopped long enough for us to visit a traditional longhouse in the Governor's village of Buntoi.

Limping into Palangkaraya, sodden and sick of noodles in any shape or form, we bid farewell to our crew from the Sebangau and began the task of making final repairs and finding a new crew.

An exciting new eco adventure

2008-02-28T02:37:00.000-08:00

The comfortable and welcoming Rahai'i Pangun , built on the Katingan River, was finally remodelled on the banks of Lake Sebangau.
These are the first pictures of it cruising in the early dawn across the mirror clear waters of the lake.
Fitted out with 5 double cabins with western style bathrooms below decks, the upper viewing deck gives fellow adventurers the perfect space to relax and enjoy the passing jungle scenery and to watch the passing parade of river craft.
With the final finishing touches made, the Rahai'i Pangun is prepared to set off on its long journey from the Sebangau River to the Kahayan River and its new home in Palangkaraya.

The comfortable Rahai'i

PATA in Bali

2007-10-19T04:42:00.000-07:00

KTD was able to attend the Pacific and Asia Travel Association (PATA) Travel Fair in Bali in September. The fair is a travel trade event, this year attended by over 400 sellers of tourism products and over 300 buyers. The response to the new eco cruise offered by Kalimantan Tourism Destinations (KTD) was enthusiastic. There is a market for new, unique travel destinations, which provide quality accommodation and experiences. KTD, with the completion of its cruise vessel, ready for the first commercial voyages on 1 January 2008, is gearing up for a very busy new year.

Independence Day 17 August

2007-08-17T12:11:00.000-07:00

Tujuh belas agustus is Indonesian Independence Day, marked in communities all over the country by wildly competitive games hotly contested by kids from 5 or 6 years up. Have you ever tried to eat a krupuk hanging from a string with hands tied behind , or maneuver a pencil tied around your waist into a soda bottle - backwards? Well, people line up here to try. Our community had non-stop games the morning, hoop rings, 3 legged races, and basketball all morning, and tug of wars, football and karaoke in the afternoon. Drifts of kids turned up, all determined to win a prize. Supervising all were a dedicated team of grown ups, who no doubt remember the fun they had when young!

2007-08-09T11:49:00.003-07:00

Selametan

2007-08-09T08:51:00.001-07:00

Selametans are part of the Indonesian way of life .. a set menu shared for celebration, commiseration, recognition, appeasement and nourishment. It is communal, bonding, spiritual, purifying and gala. Weddings have the ritual selametan where greeting the newly weds is every bit as important as enjoying the food. Making the first intention to build a house, or to welcome a baby, start a new career auspiciously or celebrate the end of the fasting month, a selametan brings a crowd together to mark the event or intention. Dominated by the yellow rice mountain, a pyramid of rice steamed with spices to the exact consistency to stand up on its own, the table or mat is a festive splash of colour. Centred on a bamboo platter, covered by a freshly cut and woven banana leaf, the rice mountain has an unvaried array of delicacies at its feet - fried chicken niblets, potato cakes or perkadel, fried tempeh with peanuts, and fresh coconut shredded with cassava leaves and green beans. Sometimes a chicken stew or opor ayam, accompanies it, but there is always a fiery fresh chilli paste or sambal and a barrel of plain steamed rice. After prayers the eldest and most distinguished guest is invited to cut or receive the top of the mountain. Once safely seated, the other guests begin to load their plates. Its also a free meal!

Warm welcome in Pegatan

2007-08-07T22:04:00.000-07:00

Descending the Sebangau River to the Java Sea was smooth as glass all the way, but crossing the bay to the mouth of the Katingan River was a bit choppy. Reaching the sheltered channel behind Damar Island came after half an hour. Craning to catch glimpses of proboscis monkeys in the mangroves was to no avail. The best time to see them is dawn and dusk, not in early afternoon as we approached the township.
High on stilts at low tide, Pegatan gave us a warm but wet welcome. As soon as we'd checked into the simple and comfortable guest house, rain came in heavy squalls, blotting out the bulky traditional freighters standing just off shore, the nearby mosque and the tightly packed village. We sat on a tiny balcony sipping sweet tea and coffee waiting for it to ease.
Strolling through the car-less village later, we attracted many delighted welcomes from the villagers, as we ate satay and saw swallow 'hotels' for birdnests, piles of cockle shells, fish out to dry, canoes under construction, traditional gardens, boardwalk alleys, freely wandering cows and goats, and mangroves.

Pegatan spin

2007-08-02T22:06:00.000-07:00

Travelling on Kalteng's rivers is an exercise in expectation - are we early enough to catch the boat, is there going to be enough space, and will the weather and the boat hold?
Making the trip to Pegatan as a farewell to Indonesia, friends working at the BCU National Plus School at Tangkiling enthusiastically squeezed into the speedboat, which had settled into the tiny harbour at Keringbangkirai, south of Palangka Raya. On board were already passengers and goods, including a motor bike all headed, like us, to Pegatan along the beautiful black water Sebangau River, bordering the Sebangau National Park.
Pegatan perches on the end of the sandy spit which is the mouth of the Katingan River. The easiest access is via the Sebangau River. Otherwise it is a risky open sea speedboat journey from Sampit (not recommended by a green-faced police officer met later in Pegatan), a 7+ hour journey from Kasongan on the Katingan River (expensive charter only), or a seasonal klotok ride by canal from Sampit (2 hours).
We travelled in June, and had strong rain showers, but still enjoyed perfect reflections and watching the vegetation change from forest, to rushes to dense palms at the mouth. Along the river we saw snakes swimming and small bronze freshwater crocodiles, as well waterbirds. Later a passenger talked about the big salt water crocs at the mouth, but we did not see any.

Hornbill home

2007-06-15T09:10:00.000-07:00

Native to many parts of the Indonesian archipelago, the species common to Central Kalimantan is known as the burung tingang or tingang hornbill. It is a magnificent bird with striking white feathers in the mostly black plumage, and crowned by its glossy yellow horned bill and jaunty red crest. I heard a story recently which relates that, once the eggs are laid in a cosy hole in a tree, the male bird then closes it with twigs and mud, apart from a small feeding space it uses to bring food to the broody female. Whether true or not, we often catch glimpses of hornbills (or they of us?) swooping across the rivers. Since the forest on nearby land has been left to regenerate, and all birds protected, many species of hornbill have been spotted by keen birdwatchers. The feathers were greatly prized by locals, and some can still be seen adorning the headgear of traditional dancers. This carving was made to decorate a sandung, or traditional bone house.

Pagatan by speed

2007-06-07T23:46:00.001-07:00

A group of friends here are talking about taking a taxi speed boat to Pegatan on the Java Sea to see proboscis monkeys. From Palangka Raya it takes about 4 hours by speedboat down the black water Sebangau River. Winding through uninteresting country initally, land that has been logged and burned, the boat reaches the mangroves, standing in the quiet, still black waters which are fed by many streams and canals draining from the peat domes in the Sebangau National Park. Leaving the dark river behind, the speedboat bursts onto the Java Sea for a 30 minute bumpy ride to pass on the sheltered side of Damar Island before reaching Pagatan. This port town sits on the tip of the sandy promontory at the mouth of the Katingan River. A town on stilts, with tidal waters creating large differences in river levels, Pagatan lives from trading and fishing. They also want to initiate a tourism enterprise on Damar Island, where they say a white ocean beach is the main attraction. I hope the proboscis monkeys are still as numerous as they were during my last visit in 2003, when the attached photo was taken from our boat. We'll let you know!

Speedboat trips

2007-06-06T16:33:00.000-07:00

Trips by speedboat are one of the perks of living in Central Kalimantan. Speedboat taxis regularly service routes to regional centres that are usually inaccessible by car, especially during the wet season, when roads are turned into mud baths. The boat trips can be as short as an hour, for a cruise on the Rungan River, or as long as 4 hours, to Tumbang Malahoi and Pegatan, on the Java sea, or even 6 hours if travelling upriver to Tumbang Hiran. These journeys are exciting and comfortable in the big boats, designed to carry 20 or more passengers under a tarpaulin. You can sit back and enjoy the passing river scenery through a cool curtain of spray. Just as some roads can be impassable in the wet season, so the levels of many rivers go down in the dry, hot season to reveal rocky rapids, sandbanks and fallen trees, and often closing the rivers altogether.

Borneo Beat Newsletter, June 2007

2007-06-05T23:46:00.000-07:00

The longhouse at Tumbang Malahoi

2007-06-03T17:56:00.001-07:00

Longhouses, or betang, are traditionally built up the rivers by extended Dayak family groups seeking protection. A 3 hour trip by speedboat up the Rungan River to the village of Tumbang Jutuh, and then a short but rough road trip to the tiny village of Tumbang Malahoi, brings you to an area outstanding for its old longhouse and traditional carvings. This betang, lived in by 23 successive generations of the same family, also houses in front of it, the sandung, or ritual burial structure holding the bones of past family members. Flanked by tall totems representing some of those buried or guardian figures, the whole stands opposite ascention poles, said to be needed for each soul to reach heaven, on the back of one of the hornbills at the pinnacle. This betang stands on magnificent ironwood poles soaring 7 metres overhead and is clad in bark. Clambering up to the dim interior on niched poles, worn smooth by countless feet, is an entry to a bygone time. Before having to return to the speedboat, a walk through the village yields many other fine examples of sandungs and their guardian poles.

Isen Mulang Festival

2007-06-01T23:43:00.000-07:00

The Isen Mulang Festival is an annual event in Palangka Raya which brings together dancing groups from all the regions in Kalteng. Dressed in stunning costumes, and providing a magnificent splash of colour for the Governor's VIP guests before they enjoyed their meal in the traditional longhouse, these dancers were competeing for the winning laurels throughout the 5 day festival. Other hotly contested events included fireball, wood chopping, blowpipe and forwards/backwards test of strength paddling orbesei kambe! Why not arrange your holidays here next year? This festival brings the city out to the stadium and onto the streets to create a lively, almost riotous event. Capped by a public concert with both contemporary and traditional music and dance forms, this is a true festival of the people and of their living culture.

Partners Lorna Dowson-Collins and Gaye Thavisin

2007-05-31T16:32:00.000-07:00

Ecotourism in 'Lord Jim' country

Jakarta Post Features - May 20, 2007

Duncan Graham, Contributor, Palangkaraya, Central Kalimantan

There's a lot of curiosity and much activity among the mud and mangroves at a Kahayan River inlet in Palangkaraya, the capital of Central Kalimantan.

Six carpenters are building cabins atop a stripped-down, 20-meter former cargo boat bought by two foreigners with a dream. They want to introduce serious ecotourism to the huge but almost empty province -- and by doing so save the forests and the Dayak who depend on them.

The inlet, with two primitive hand-cranked steel cable winches, is a local bush version of a dry dock though heavy rains have flooded the site.

That hasn't deterred the workers who are racing to get the craft looking presentable for the May 23 celebrations of Central Kalimantan's 50th anniversary (see sidebar).

When the cheering has faded and the bunting been pulled down the engine will be installed, heaved in by muscle power, for this open-air boatyard has few facilities. Then the fittings will be finessed to ensure they're of a standard to meet the needs of international clients.

The Dayak Hope will be a floating boutique hotel with five double cabins. It will be capable of sailing into the upper reaches of the province (known locally as Kalteng), giving ecotourists the chance to see distant Dayak villages, wild (not rehabilitated) orangutans scrambling through the treetops and tropical flora and fauna.

For businesswomen Lorna Dowson-Collins and Gaye Thavisin this is a major undertaking. They plan to put the Indonesian part of Borneo on the world map of discerning tourists looking for experiences they can't get in Amsterdam or Adelaide.

The couple have already sunk more than US$60,000 (Rp 550 million) of their own money into the plan, which includes development of a river port in Palangkaraya, more floating hotels and extensive marketing overseas.

"Gaye and I have gone beyond just ooh-ing and aah-ing and thinking how great it would be to open up the Kalimantan environment to others," Lorna said.

"We're now up to our necks in a venture that's driven by our vision to protect Kalteng's unique forests and create new sources of income for the local jungle-dwelling communities."

Up to their necks? An outside observer might think this a defective metaphor. Add the crocodiles of business envy, the leaches of bureaucratic interference, the everyday hazards of remote-area life made doubly difficult in the tropics, and the fickleness of the tourist industry -- and you can see that on the Richter risk scale this show is quaking.

Lose one visitor into the swirling brown crocodilian waters or have a hard encounter with a hornbill and the word will move at warp-speed through the Internet.

Fun in frontierland? Sure -- but only if it comes with air-conditioning and cell phone access.

Boat-based tourism

This is "Lord Jim" country, the land made famous in Joseph Conrad's classic. In the story, a disgraced young seaman shrinks from society to live with the Dayak. He helps better their lives but is killed after making a second error of judgment. (Read the book if you want to know the first.)

Fortunately, neither Lorna nor Gaye are dewy-eyed business maidens. Both have sweated long enough in Indonesia to know that foreigners giving birth to a new idea won't have an easy labor, whatever soothing sounds are made by politicians who say overseas money's welcome, but won't ease the traumas of investment.

Lorna grew up in Jakarta where her father was a doctor at the British Embassy until he was kicked out of the country. Before that happened the family went sailing most weekends through the Thousand Islands just offshore from the capital -- an experience that helped develop Lorna's love of adventure.

She went on to study anthropology and work in the UK on international development programs, but was soon back in the archipelago.

In Indonesia she's been a consultant with the Australian aid agency AusAID in Aceh, and with a non-government organization (NGO) in Kalimantan on training projects and developing business enterprises.

Gaye is an Australian who formerly managed the Kalimantan Meeting Center (KMC), a three-star hotel and restaurant at Rungun Sari, about 36 kilometers northwest of Palangkaraya. She now runs a foreign investment company, PT Kalimantan Tourism Development.

Both are members of the Subud community, a spiritual movement started in Java early last century. They live at Rungun Sari where a magnificent meeting hall has been built and is available to all faiths.

"My river journeys whilst working for the NGO took me to the heart of the local people's lives and their rapidly depleting forests," Lorna said.

"Rivers are still the main transport system linking remote villages, a fascinating but uncomfortable affair. This led me to think: What could be better than a boat hotel with comfortable cabins and a restaurant viewing deck to enjoy the passing, peaceful days of village and jungle life?"

Indeed. Great idea but nothing stands in isolation. The current investment buzzword is "infrastructure" meaning roads, ports, airports, hotels and other public facilities have to be fixed first.

Sustainability

There aren't too many roads in Kalteng -- the biggest province in Borneo at 154,000 square kilometers. However, by Indonesian standards the main links are in reasonable condition.

Borneo isn't jam-packed Java: There are only 10 million in the whole Indonesian section of the island, with maybe less than 250,000 in Palangkaraya.

The locust swarms of Hondas and Yamahas have yet to plague the highways and the air is breathable outside the smoke season when farmers set fire to the forests in defiance of edicts from Jakarta.

There's no international airport so connections -- frequently late -- have to be made through Jakarta or Surabaya. Foreigners remain a rarity -- only 2,000 visited last year -- and not all Palangkaraya hotels are either comfortable or welcoming to outsiders.

The plan is to run Dayak Hope from the river close to the KMC hotel while port facilities in Palangkaraya are upgraded. Then, if all goes well, boats two and three will be built. These will probably be custom-built rather than converted.

The original budget of Rp 280 million for the boat alone has already doubled. Other investors have come to the rescue so the project is still afloat and heading for commercial operation in September -- with a plan to break even by the second year.

Mike Johnson, a marine environmental anthropologist from East Java, has been hired to advise on the work, though the design came from a French marine architect.

Johnson reckons the cost of building a floating hotel from the keel up will be little more than buying and reshaping an old boat -- and a lot easier.

The proposed tariff is Rp 4.3 million per person for a three-day, all-found river trip. The partners reckon this will attract a market between backpackers who'll rough it anywhere, and the top-end tourists who want five star toilets.

Lorna put together a business plan entered it in an international competition and won a useful Rp 74 million for her proposal. Through this she met Dutch travel agents interested in supplying management skills, clients and maybe investment.

"Our first planned tours will be along the Katingan River into the newly established Sebangau National Park, one of the last surviving peat swamp forests in Kalimantan and home to the largest known remaining orangutan populations in the world," she said.

"Unfortunately, illegal logging and forest fires continue to threaten the survival of the park.

"Our overall aim is to promote ecotourism in Kalteng as a viable way of protecting the forest and promoting the welfare of local communities through creating an effective strategy for economic growth.

"We'll provide 25 per cent of our boat tour profits to finance village ecotourism and conservation programs using microfinance loans to establish home-stays and train guides.

"The communities depend on the natural resources for their livelihoods. When use is sustainable the balance in the ecosystem is maintained. But where income is low the local people are forced to exploit.

"Poverty is a large threat to biodiversity. To conserve nature it's important to deal with poverty alleviation.

"We believe that our boat will be the vehicle to develop a social enterprise that can make a real difference."

Rahai'i Pangun

2007-05-29T18:36:00.000-07:00

Our cruise boat has a name! On 22 May 2007, as part of the 50th Anniversary Celebrations of Central Kalimantan, at a traditional adat ceremony, local Kaharingan spiritual leaders gave the name Rahai'i Pangun to our cruise boat. Called after a mythical boat which widely traded up the rivers of Kalimantan and throughout Asia, it was famous for its ability to travel cross treacherous seas. Still under construction, the boat will be ready for its first tourists in September.

2007-05-14T19:13:00.000-07:00

Mixing waters

2007-05-14T17:57:00.000-07:00

The image of black water coming off the peat swamps and drifting into the muddy Kahayan River water looks like an odd painting, where the undercoat has still to be glazed by the final murky brown or conversely by the translucent black. But this scene is normal from the vantage point of the bridge over the Kahayan. A nearby creek which has run over the peat deposits on which Palangka Raya sits, sends its brackish water off to a swirling battle, where these days the muddy water will win. Once, they say, all the rivers of Kalimantan were black.

Rains

2007-05-13T18:40:00.000-07:00

The rivers are overflowing and changing colour from the muddy brown of the lower levels to the black, clear brackish water flooding from the peaty soils in the forests. Floating houses, or rumah trapung, along the rivers rise with the tide and strain on the ropes anchoring them to the riverbanks. The stilt houses along the rivers are like islands with their canoes bobbing at the front door, and rickety bridges zigzagging to the nearest dry land. Forests flood and we can float through them to surprise birds and proboscis monkeys. As the rains culminate, and the dry season begins, the clouds scatter and the sun shines on this watery world, reflecting perfectly in the black water. Rains upriver still keep the levels high, as high as 15 feet or more above the dry season lows. With an easing of the rains, the river levels go down quickly and the floods rush away to the Java Sea or are absorbed into the sandy base of Kalimantan, once said to be the bottom of the ocean.